Belly Button Pain Hepatitis

Inglés text below.
bought not long ago on ebay this jewel of portable, in fairly good condition. According to the website

Old Computers

, I have in hand a computer that was manufactured between 1987 and 1992, which I'm afraid I can not ever know the exact year of my particular computer. The technical, as I could ascertain is this: Intel 80C86

640 KB RAM 2 medium-density floppy drives (720KB) 1 serial port, 1 parallel port
text display 80 columns by 25 lines

The team I was without power supply. Requires 12V and 2.2A, according to the sticker of the equipment. I am using a universal power supply, 12V and 12 A, so I do not have problems :-)

battery, as expected, is totally dead, so I dismounted to see if it can be replaced, and the answer is yes, because be installed inside the plastic housing 6 rechargeable AA batteries, which provide the necessary 7.2V. This is even the near future.

The disk drives came to me useless! Work but are unable to read anything. I have the suspicion that has been misaligned with the years. If any kind reader can tell me how to fix this would be infinitely grateful. I've tried to replace them, but use a proprietary connector 26-pin, instead of the standard 36. As I could find via google, it is feasible to produce an adapter to install a modern disk drive on this computer, if anyone knows anything, would also be very very grateful.

In theory, the team had MS-DOS 3.3 in ROM, but this does not carry it, and it seems that there was indeed no such ROM versions. A real shame, because to have had the problem of disk drives would not be so serious. I have not been able to find anything more about it.


Inglés text.

Not too long ago, I buyed in ebay this fantastic laptop, in very good shape.
Acording to the web

Old Computers, i have in my hands to system built between years 1987 and 1992, so I'm afraid I'll never be able to know the precise year of my system. The technical specifications, as long as i've been able to find out:
Intel 80c86 Processor
640 KB of RAM 2 half density floppy drives (720KB) 1 serial port, 1 parallel port
text screen, 80 columns by 25 rows

The system arrived without power supply. Acording to the label in the system, it needs 12V and 2.2A. I'm using an universal power supply, with 12V and 12A, so I don't think I'll run into problems :-)

The battery, as spected, is totally dead, so I've unmounted it, to see if its possible to susbtitute it, and the answer is yes, because its possible to install inside the plastic case six rechargeable AA batteries, that give the necessary 7.2V. This is for a near future.

The floppy drives arrived useless. They work, but they are unable to read anything. I thing that maybe the drives are miss-aligned because of the years. If some gentle reader cant help me how to solve this problem, I'll be endlessly grateful. I've tried to substitute it, but they use a 26 pin propietary connector, instead of the standar 36 pin connector. As long as I've been able to find out, it is possible to make an adaptor, so I can install a modern drive in this system. If somebody knows anything about this adapter, I'll also be much much grateful.

In theory, the system has installed a ROM with ms-dos 3.3, But Does not this particular machine has it, and it Seems That There Actually WHERE Without this ROM versions. A real shame, Because with this ROM, the floppy problem Would not Have Been so critical. I've Unable to find anything more about this subject.

photos, click to enlarge. / The photographs, click to expand.





Overview of the team on.
The system, powered on.


Top view of your computer without the battery.
Upper view of the system, Without the battery.


Right View, we can see the 2 disk drives.
Right side, the two floppy drives Are Clearly vissible.


Top view, with the screen closed and the battery pack up equipment. Upper
view, with the screen closed and the battery pack over the system.


Rear view.
Rear view.


Vista right, with the screen closed and the battery pack.
Right side, with the screen closed and the battery pack.
Vista

left.
Left side.


batteries removed. Above left is a detail tab of the battery. As you can see, the switch is in the battery does nothing, it is only an indicator. The unarmed
batteries. Upper left There's a detail with the battery specs. As Can Be seen, the switch in the battery does nothing, it's only an indicator.




keyboard, and compared with a standard keyboard. :-) I love The keyboard, and the keyboard Compared to a standard one. I love it :-)


The interior, as it is to remove the main case.
The inside, as you can see it when to Removing the main case.


Details of the connections of the power supply. Detail of
the connections of the power supply.


monitor connections. Independent eye to the main connector cable is the one that feeds the backlight, do not forget to plug.
The screen connections. Look for the independent from the main cable connections, ITS the One That Powers the backlight, dont forget to plug it.


rear connectors. Monitor 9-pin, composite video, parallel port, serial port, external keypad, and external floppy connector.
The rear connectors: 9 pin screen, composite video, parallel port, serial port, external numeric keyboard and external floppy connector.


base plate.
The main board.


1: rear port connector
2: floppy A
3: floppy B 4: reset button 5: drive selector 6: control of display contrast
7: I do not know
8: 9
monitor connector, monitor connector lighting
10: keyboard connector
11: 12
power supply connector, modem connector
13: hard disk connector (not sure)
14: Status LED connector
15: second connector
power
1: rear connector port
2: A floppy
3: B floppy
4: reset switch
5: disk drive selector
6: control screen contrast
7: I do not know
8: screen connector
9: backlight connector
10: keyboard connector
11: power supply connector
12: modem connector
13: hard drive connector (I 'm not sure)
14: state LED connector
15: second power supply connector

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Toshiba T1200 Light-Scan, Part 1

dismounted a scanner recently failed to take advantage of some pieces, and dismounted the small neon step leading to it can be reused as light table. I found a pair of mirrors also useful to use as a reflector for the lamp.
Although not yet finished (I intend to leave almost perfect) and work, so I decided to put a first part with the results so far. Of course, it's usable, but the "interface" is to be polished.
In the previous steps I have very few photos (I have taken several days to do so), but because it is very simple, with the final photos looks exactly how I have done.
The wood used are standard 2x1 cm strips of pine.

This photo shows the head, just assembled. To make these cuts at an angle I used a miter

. After I have fixed with glue and wood screws (do you call it?).



Here it looks like I hit the first mirror. What is lobbying is precisely the miter.


This is the base, just pasted. To ensure the O, put two nails per board, cutting off the head, and lots of glue. It is not the strongest in the world, but for the effort that will endure is more than enough.


base, finished with the battery by a counterweight. Now understand better the reason for that. The battery you see is 12 volt, 12 amp, lead-gel sealed. I have also one of 4.5A which also serve for the lamp.


Details of the joint at the base. This is the part that I dislike as it has been, is likely to end up changing the future. It is also the part that receives pressure, and I've been a bit fragile.


The head, which is the part I like. In the future I will add a trim that will plug electronics, cables, etc.


Two details of the placing of the mini-neon to the head.



A summary of the investor. Is as it left the scanner, did not need to touch anything. 12 volt light comes on and happily :-)

Finished. This picture was taken without flash, only to light the lamp. Not much light actually makes the camera has a bit overexposed.

This is the same photo, but I've tweaked, so you can see a more about the real light that makes the lamp.


For now the plug in using a cable with alligator clips. When more advanced and you'll have a switch that is minimally comfortable. The use of light, measured with an ammeter, is 0.34 amps (4 watts) approx. So with a 12-amp battery I have for hours and hours of daylight.
Next steps are provided for finishing the wood base, solve the problem of the main joint, make a bezel for the head, and finally painted and varnished, with a darker shade than it does now.

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Mounting a wifi access point on a terrace

The third, and final, article retrieved from trinidad.no-ip.com, mounting the access point of the terrace. To see other items from the old website Trinity, Trinity seeks

label on this website.

This article I had to edit a lot, since the format allows me to blogger is too different from the original format. It is also important to note that everything shown in this article was removed in April 2007 but remains a useful reference if you want to make a similar mount.

Finally, after a long time, I could mount the AP on the roof. It was not easy. The greatest difficulty has been climbing about 25 meters of cable from the fourth floor to the top of the lift. At first I thought up 220 volts, two cables, but in the end I used to simplify a system of POE (Power over Ethernet). For the POE, and to avoid losses because of the distance, I put 12 volts to the cable, and then sealed in the box above the rectified at 5 you need 3 transistors using the AP voltage regulators (7805). In theory each transistor withstands 1 amp load, as the AP needs 2, and to avoid overloading, Use 3.
Inside the waterproof case is the AP without housing to save space, and 3 transistors with their respective sinks. All holes have been sealed box using glue termofusor. Ethernet cable entry I make it through an RJ45 socket, also he is very comfortable to classify after wires.

even empty box with mounting screws of AP, and all facts necessary hole. Also this because the female RJ45 connector.



Attach the pigtail to the AP. As the PA has no external connector, and either find a connector for "it", I opted to remove the connector and solder the cable directly. Works:)

Riding transistors.

completely finished box, still in evidence at home.

First test with the antenna. As the AP has two antennas, which had to ensure was which.

Once done all played outside mount. The antenna holder to purchase is to screw in the wall (there is also the surface), because in my case as best he could assemble. With the 8 screws that leads, I doubt it with the wind ...
The cable is completely covered with aluminum tape (aka duct tape) to protect from the elements, especially moisture.

Completely finished assembly.



Almost a year later added a directional antenna to make a link with a neighboring node. antennas have been used DBi Stella Doradus, 19 on each side of the link. The distance covered is approximately 400 meters.

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Modifying a USR 2410 PCMCIA

The second article trinidad.no-ip.com recovered, how to modify a PCMCIA card to add an external antenna connector. To see other items from the old website trinity, search Trinity the label on this website.

Many no doubt seen guide of how to add a pigtail to the card.
The real problem comes in getting the SMD capacitors. They are so extremely small that only sold in boxes of a thousand or more.
asking, is that in theory the non-SMD components can do the same work, that if larger. I found that fit perfectly normal capacitors on the card, so everything was a matter of try it ... I have not used the SMA connector, I soldered the coax "bareback." Works perfectly. The black part is the shrink (polyolefin) that I used to make it more aesthetic and protected.

photos. Click to enlarge.